Southern Hospitality

It's no myth, these people are some of the friendliest folks I have come across. Wherever I go, people seem to be looking out for me, but in the South, it feels like every other person stops to ask if I need anything. And a good thing too, because lately I've been needing much more support than I used to.

Since I last wrote, my pace has changed drastically, for my Achilles tendon has started to act up. From Jackson, I only biked a few miles before it started to hurt, so the 100 mile day I was hoping for was cut short at 65 miles. The following day, I barely made it 63 miles, my Achilles was extremely painful by noon so I took a very long break to stretch and rest. I even walked a few miles because it seemed to help stretch out my leg while allowing me to continue to make at least a little progress. Even so, I still had 55 miles to go by late afternoon and there was no chance my overstressed Achilles could make it.

But Rufus, my warm showers host in Tupelo, generously offered to drive nearly fifty miles out to pick me up that evening so that I could rest my injury in a warm bed rather than camping out in the rain. He then proceeded to take me out to dinner and let me stay again the next night so I could have a rest day. Talk about Southern hospitality, I couldn't have dreamed of a better place to recuperate.

Tornado destruction

On Saturday, I joined a work crew from Rufus' church to help clean up from tornado damage. The long, hot day hauling wood around was not only a sorely needed upper body workout, but also a refreshing change to my routine. It was fun to meet new folks, and better still, be able to give rather than take for once. Tornado damage is totally overwhelming and though our work was small in the grand scheme of things, it did change the condition of a few people's yards dramatically.

 There are many, many more hours, days and years of work to do to restore all the homes, businesses and other buildings that were damaged in this storm however, and as global warming continues to create "natural" disasters of this scale, complete recovery will probably never happen. Nevertheless, the sheer number of people who donated their time to help their neighbors is an inspiration; I have no doubt that it will be these same communities that will make the changes we need to in order to continue our existence in this beautiful world.

The Tennesse River

After the work day, I stayed in Tupelo for one more day, for I met a man named Stephen King through the church work crew who offered to let me stay with his family. No, not that Stephen King, he's a vet who did some bicycle touring in his youth and never lost sight of the joy of it. We immediately connected, and I had an absolutely incredible time with the whole family. They welcomed me wholeheartedly into their beautiful home and treated me to a proper Southern dinner of grits, salmon and asparagus followed by frozen custard from the local Bop's for dessert! It was delicious and Stephen's wife taught me how to make the grits so I'll have something to share with my family when I get home.

Coasting on the Natchez Trace

Though my Achilles is still not fully back to normal, it is significantly better, and I have been taking it easy these past few days so it continues to improve. Taking it easy is a very different mindset, but I have been enjoying taking long breaks and moving even more slowly than usual. It gives me time to take in the beauty of the countryside as I pass through and appreciate all the wonderful people I come across.

 Though this means that I probably won't be able to do the Blue Ridge Parkway on this trip, I would rather enjoy the rest of my time in the South and come home with a sound Achilles tendon. As Thomas, one of our teachers on Kroka's NH-Ecuador semester taught me, it is important to come home from an expedition with clean clothes (metaphorically at least), not staggering in to collapse and recover in the "real" world. So I will amble my way over to Asheville and take the train from Charlotte, North Carolina to New Haven, Connecticut and then make my way home from there.

Peace, Love and a happy traveler,
Sonya

Yes, that's a drive through liquor store!